Viognier is a hedonistic grape, with masses of peachy fruit and, when made right, lovley spicy aromas of nutmeg, and clove. But we very nearly ended up with none to drink. In the 1960s there was only around 8 hectares of Viognier in Condrieu and that was about it. The grape was probably saved from disappearing by one or two wineries in California taking it on, and large French wine companies starting to plant Vin de Pays Viognier in the Ardeche. Then in the 1990s it was able to benefit from the Anything But Chardonnay movement.

One reason that it was disappearing is that it's tricky to grow. Viognier needs to get to 13% potential abv for it's aromatic characteristics to show. It seems that all those aroma compounds develop after the sugar levels reach decent ripeness. So this means you need highish alcohol to get the flavour but need to stop things going OTT.

One worry I've always had with New World Viognier is that  they seem to often get up towards 15% abv and display some "burn" on the palate.  Australian examples always seemed to do this for me, though I haven't had one for a while. (Condrieu can also push towards 15% but seems to avoid the heat.)  Other New Worlders can seem a bit gloopy with acidity being overpowered by viscosity. One of the better ones I've recently tried is the Staete Landt from Marlborough, New Zealand (£17.50 for the 2009 at time of post), which is a lovely round textured mouthful of peachy fruit. There is a suggestion that a lesser mutation of the grape present in the Southern Rhone is the one that has spread round the world, which helps explain why wines made outside the original base don't quite have the same aromatic complexity.

So I still think the Northern Rhone is the place to go. Condrieu wines have that array of aromas mentioned above. On the palate the wines tend to be a lot more subtle, with hints of stone fruit alongside nuttiness and spice. Wines are generally £30 plus, which makes them a bit of a luxury. However there are some stunning wines from the local Vin de Pays des Collines Rhodaniennes (Rhone slopes). These lack the subtlety and depth of the more pricey wines but can benefit from more refreshing acidity making them better all-rounders with food. Yves Cuilleron is an acknowledged master of the grape, and whilst his Condrieu Vertige 2007 (£85) is epic, his Vin de Pays 2009 (£17.50) is one of my favourite wines at Bottle Apostle.

Opinions are mixed as to ageing Condrieu. They get more honeyed with age, but having tried a few 10 year old Condrieus I tend to prefer them very fresh with perky acidity. Perhaps a little raw but that's my taste. Other Viogniers probably don't have the track record to make a judgement on ageing, though I'd be sceptical about high alcohol New World examples.

Food wise I'd be looking at chicken, pork and lamb dishes. Given its flavour characteristics I can see a lamb tagine working, or pork with apricots. If you are so inclined foie gras, pan-fried or cool, is great with Viognier - which is easier for British palates than a Sauternes at the start of a meal.